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[Youtube video] Aventail belt – Bespoke premium holeless belt

Watch this video on YouTube.

Welcome back to my channel, friend!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce you to the Aventail belt, a premium holeless size adjustable belt made of full-grain vegetable tanned leather. This is a remake video, if you have watched the original video, this video is a duplicate, however if you haven’t, stay tuned!

With a traditional holed belt like this, there is always a problem with belt not fit you correctly. Say you have the perfect hole cut out for you when you wear thin trouser. The next time, you wear it with jeans and have a big dinner, the hole is too tight for you.

Or say, you go to the gym and lose some weight, that perfect hole becomes too lose. Or nothings happen whatsoever, but the belt’s leather stretches over time, and your perfect hole is moved.

So, you have to choose between a hole too tight that you can’t breathe, or a hole too loose that your pant starts to sag. Surely there are other options? Yes, there are several types of size adjustable belts, you can watch my video introducing different types of belts, link in the description.

Long story short, for the best size adjustable belt with money is no problem, we have the ratchet belt.

With the ratchet belt, the belt size can be adjusted per 7mm or 1/8th of an inch. Your belt will always fit you. Now, the belt work like this. You push the belt in, it will slide and lock into place. For opening the belt, push the lever, and it will open.

Now in the market there are many similar holeless size adjustable belts like this, but the majority of them are built like fast fashion items. For some reason, their makers don’t enter the fine leather world, and fine leather makers don’t pay much attention to the ratchet. We intend to bring these two worlds together.

Let’s start with the strap, as you can see, most ratchet belts are only made of split leather, or full grain leather only on the outside layer. You can examine the leather by removing the buckle and look at the belt cross section closely. As you can see in the photo on the left side, the leather fibers have similar size from the surface to the bottom.

That means this is split leather with a plastic coating for surface, which is a far cheaper type of leather and not as durable as top grain or full grain leather. In contrast, the right side is Aventail belt. As you can see, the leather fibers are thicker at the bottom and gradually finer to the surface, this is full grained leather. And both sides of the belt are full grained leather, not just the outside layer like other belts. We at Aventail don’t cut corner.

The ratchet is hand stitched, which is far more durable than machine stitching in other belts.

With hand stitching, two threads run independently. If one thread is broken, the other still hold its place. With machine stitching, if only one thread is broken, the whole stitch line falls apart.

The belt is made without edge stitching for clean aesthetic. The process to make this takes 2 days to finish, unlike other belts that are glued together in a minute and stitched together by sewing machine. Here is double layer edge paint to improve water resistant.

The default buckle is made of stainless steel, which is much more durable and chemical resistant then zinc alloy like other cheaper buckles. As you can see here, this is a zinc alloy buckle after one year of use. And this one is stainless steel, also after one year of use.

In short, our belts are made to last, whether years or decades, totally up to you.

So, what does this mean to you?

If you just want a durable, size adjustable belt, why don’t you take a nylon belt like this, why bother with a premium leather belt? Because beautiful things in life make it worth living. Beauty is a universal language shared by many species, valued by many cultures. Without it, life is just a continuous struggle without meaning. And so, premium leather is one of those beauty for you if you fancy one. Whatever cost you pay for a premium leather item, you will not remember it after the first year of use. After that, the item is yours to keep, to satisfy your taste of finer things in life.

Our belt is made inhouse right here, in Vietnam, so that quality is controlled. And we have 10 years guarantee for manufacturing errors.

The belt is available in dozens of colors, link in the description.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video!

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Menswear in India, Mughal dynasty (1526–1857)

Watch this video on YouTube.

Video transcript:

Welcome back to my channel, friend!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce you to the menswear system in India Mughal dynasty (1526–1857), which is the one of the greatest imperial India dynasty in history.

So, please adjust your time machine accordingly, the time is 1526, the place is Kabul, Afghanistan, and we will disguise as local traders. Enjoy the ride!

  • Brief history about Mughal dynasty in India

Mughal dynasty is the result of a multi generations conquest of Babur and his descendants. Babur is a Central Asian ruler, descendant of Timur and Genghis Khan. The Mughal had diplomatic tie to Safavid Iran, weapon from Ottoman, trading relationship with European companies. As such, they were able to defeat other much larger Indian states and conquered most of India subcontinent. Under the Mughal, India became the richest country in the world, once accounted for 25% world industrial output, 95% British import from Asia. Largest industry included textile and shipbuilding, which as you can guess, lead to an abundant of clothes and accessories. Like all other empires, Mughal didn’t last forever. Many factors contributed to Mughal’s decline: financial deficit, war, weather, religious conflict, class conflict, the ruling class forgot themselves in luxury and abandoned governing tasks. The empire reduced in size, then existed only in name, then were finally removed by the British.

  • Mughal men’s wear

In Mughal period, all other traditional men’s wear from previous eras were continued to be worn. This video only covers men’s wear that appeared during this period. The Mughal initially used Iran and Mongol clothes. But the thick and heavy costume weren’t suitable for the hot Indian weather. They eventually adopt some element from Hindi clothes into use. Some notable items:

  • Jama: a side-fastening frock coat with tight-fitting bodice, nipped-in waist and flared skirt, reaching the knees
  • Yalek: A long under-tunic reaching to the floor, usually with short sleeves or sleeveless.
  • Paijama: a pant with drawstring fastening. Ancestor of modern pyjama
  • Churidar: Paijama cut on the bias, much longer than the leg, so that folds fall at the ankle.
  • Shalwar: A triangularly cut paijama with a quilted band at the ankle (poncha).
  • Patka: Around the waist of the Jama, a long piece of fine fabric was tied like a sash. This was the Patka, from which a jeweled sword could be suspended. Patkas were hand-woven with complex designs, or embroidered, or hand-painted or printed. Many made for royalty showed textile craftmanship at its best
  • Footwear

Many shoes came from Iran styles. Some of the types as follow

  • Jhooti: Ornamented shoes with turned up toes.
  • Kafsh/Khusa: shoe worn by nobles and kings
  • Charhvan/ Nagras: shoe with a curling tongue fixed to the toe
  • Salim Shahi: shoe decorated in gold
  • Khurd Nau: very lightweight shoe, made of kid leather

Lucknow, a large city in northern India, was most famous for its footwear in Mughal times, and the art of Aughi, embroidery on leather and velvet footwear, was very popular.

  • Headwear
  • Pagri: turban, a universal headwear for both Muslims and Hindus. In India a turban proclaims status, religion, caste and family. To submit your turban is a sign of total submission. When a man dies, his turban is tied on the head of his eldest son, to signify taking the responsibility of the family. Mughals tied their turbans, then added decoration by way of bejeweled bans, pin jewelry or other ornamentation.

Caps: Caps worn were heavily ornamented and in a variety of styles.

  • Chau-goshia: cap made in four segments
  • Qubbedar/taqiyah: dome-shaped cap
  • Kashiti Numa: boat-shaped cap
  • Dupalli: small narrow cap with front and back points
  • Nukka Dar: cap for nobles, heavily embroidered
  • Mandil: cap usually black velvet embroidered with gold or silver thread
  • Headdress and grooming

With their head always covered in turban, it’s not certain if men in Mughal period shaved their head or just cut their hair short. About facial hair, one thing is certain is the Mughal were very proud of their moustache, maybe dated back all the way to Iran 300BC. Men may have shaved their facial hair clean, but the moustaches were kept intact. The practice continued to today.

  • Accessories and jewelry

Ornaments were worn not only for the purpose of attracting the attention of others around but also as a distinctive mark of status, rank and dignity. Most of the traveler agreed that ornaments were the very joy of their hearts. Different types of head ornaments, ear ornaments, nose ornaments, necklaces, hand ornaments, waist belts and ankle/foot ornaments were used in the Mughal Empire.

  • Clothes material

Fabrics of the time included wild goat’s hair cloth (tus) and pashmina, light and warm wool. Silks were often embroidered with gold and silver thread and embellished with laces. Any and all of these cloths were regularly scented with rose water. Shawls were reportedly so thin they could pass through a finger ring.

Muslin, a cotton fabric of plain weave, was hand woven in the region around Dhaka, Bengal (now Bangladesh), and exported to Europe, the Middle East, and other markets, for much of the 17th and 18th centuries. The various muslins had poetic names like ab-i-rawan, meaning “running water”, and daft hawa, meaning “woven air”. Some of these garments would wear out after a single use.

  • Conclusion

I hope through this video, you can have an overview of menswear in India Mughal dynasty. I’m making this video not as an insider but an outsider trying to understand, If I have incorrect information, feel free to comment down below.

On an unrelated note, can you see this beautiful belt?

Aventail belt is a holeless size adjustable belt made of full grain vegetable tanned leather. You can watch the belt introduction video link in the description.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video!

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Menswear in Spain empire, 16th century

Watch this video on YouTube.

Video transcript:

Welcome back to my channel, friend!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce you to the menswear system in Spain, 16th century, which is the golden era of Spanish Empire.

So, please tighten your seat belt, and enjoy the ride!

  • Brief history about Spanish Empire

The Spanish monarchy was created when Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of Castile married and united their nations. With the new dynasty, Spain reconquered Iberia peninsula and started to expand oversea. The empire reached its golden age in 16th and 17th century when it had colonies all around the world, the first global empire where the sun never set. The wealth of the empire brought enough gold and silver to reintroduce inflation into Europe. With such a large empire, the Spanish had troubles keeping it together. Wars with British, French, American, and independence movements tore the empire apart. The empire also industrialized much later than other Western European, which made the economy heavily dependent on agriculture and mining. The empire formally ended when the last oversea colony was lost in 1976.

  • European heritage

Spain shared most of the clothes system with other European nations, which consisted of:

A linen shirt with collar or ruff and matching wrist ruffs, which were laundered with starch to be kept stiff and bright.

Doublets were stiff, heavy garments, with long sleeves sewn or laced in place, and were often reinforced with boning that were worn over the shirt.

A jerkin, usually sleeveless and often made of leather, was worn over the doublet. Waistlines dipped V-shape in front, and were padded to hold their shape. Around 1570, this padding was exaggerated into a peascod belly.

Hose, in variety of styles, were worn with a codpiece early in the period. Trunk hose or round hose were short padded hose.

Very short trunk hose were worn over cannions, fitted hose that ended above the knee.

Slops or galligaskins were loose hose reaching just below the knee.

Short cloaks or capes, usually hip-length, often with sleeves, or a military jacket like a mandilion, were fashionable.

Long cloaks were worn in cold and wet weather. Gowns and robes began to fall out of fashion and became traditional clothes.

  • Spanish distinct style

16th century is a rare time in European history when Spanish fashion dominated the continent. From their colonies in America, the Spain had a monopoly of the expensive deep black dyestuff called “raven’s wing”, and another intense red dyestuff from Cochineal bug. These colors became mandatory in court dress and was popular everywhere except France and Italy. It became the symbol of wealth, social class, and religious austerity.

The black clothes were made of intricate heavy fabric like velvet and raised silk, and decorated with jewelry like rubies, diamonds and pearls to contrast the black backdrop.

They also wore ruffs (lechuguillas): a wheel of white linen cloths that wrap around the neck, with a matching pair of cuffs. It was made to shown that the man had a high position and didn’t have to do manual labor. In later times, Spanish ruffs became a plain semicircular wheel called golilla, while other European ruffs became more elaborated, made of delicate reticella, and later using needlelaces.

In later times, the Spanish changed their slim fit trunk hose into a singular padded breech called calzones, which made them look broad and solid. Other European follow French style instead.

  • Headwear

Through the 1570s, a soft fabric hat with a gathered crown was worn. These derived from the flat hat of the previous period, and over time the hat was stiffened and the crown became taller and far from flat.

 Later, a conical felt hat with a rounded crown called a capotain or copotain became fashionable. These became very tall toward the end of century. Hats were decorated with a jewel or feather, and were worn indoors and out.

Close-fitting caps covering the ears and tied under the chin called coifs continued to be worn by children and older men under their hats or alone indoors; men’s coifs were usually black.

A conical cap of linen with a turned-up brim called a nightcap was worn informally indoors; these were often embroidered.

  • Footwear

During Philip II’s rule shoes were pointed, with large slashes in the arches and two more on the sides.

Later on, the tip of the shoe became flatter and laces were added.

Boots were worn for riding.

  • Hair style

Hair was generally worn short, brushed back from the forehead. Longer styles were popular in the 1580s. In the 1590s, young men of fashion wore a lovelock, a long section of hair hanging over one shoulder.

Although beards were worn by many men prior to the mid-16th century, it was at this time when grooming and styling facial hair gained social significance. These styles would change very frequently, from pointed whiskers to round trims, throughout these few decades.

  • Accessories

A baldrick or “corse” was a belt commonly worn diagonally across the chest or around the waist for holding items such swords, daggers, bugles, and horns.

Gloves were often used as a social signal to recognize the wealthy. Beginning in the second half of the 16th century, many men trimmed tips off of the fingers of gloves in order for others to see the jewels behind the glove.

Late in the period, fashionable young men wore a plain gold ring, a jewelled earring, or a strand of black silk through one pierced ear.

  • Clothes material

Spain still kept its monopoly in merino wool, a type of fine wool much loved in England and Netherlands. Most of the flock were own by nobility or the church.

The wool dyed in a dark color was favored among Protestants communities, in contrast of the bright color from the French and Italian court.

  • Conclusion

I hope through this video, you can have an overview of menswear in Spain, 16th century. I’m making this video not as an insider but an outsider trying to understand, If I have incorrect information, feel free to comment down below.

As you can see, the 16th century Spanish menswear prioritized black and red over other colors. Speaking of which, here are red and black Aventail watch strap, the world first single piece leather NATO watch strap. The watch strap is available in hundreds of combinations, link in the description.

We also have Aventail belt, a premium holeless belt made of full grain vegetable tanned leather. The belt is available in dozens of colors, link in the description.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video!

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Aventail watch strap : World’s first one piece leather NATO watch strap

Watch this video on YouTube.

Video transcript:

Welcome to my channel, friend!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce to you the Aventail watch strap.

Do you love watches? I know I love watches. They are beautiful and sophisticated. What I don’t like is having a chunk of metal sitting on my wrist.

In cold weather, the metal transfers the cold winter onto your skin.

In hot weather, the metal traps sweat and burn your wrist.

That’s why we have NATO watch strap and bund watch strap.

With a strap like this, your skin doesn’t have metal contact, which is very comfortable. You can wear your watch a whole day without remember having it. But wearing the same nylon strap day in, day out is quite boring. It’s like wearing Christmas clothes all day every day. The bund strap on the other hand is too bulky. If only there is a watch strap that is both slim, lightweight and made of leather, wouldn’t it be great?

Enter the Aventail watch strap. It’s the world first single piece leather NATO watch strap. The strap is made of full grain vegetable tanned leather, which has beautiful and sophisticated look. The inside layer is made of full grain pigskin leather, which is the only thing that your wrist will touch and is extremely comfortable.

And here check this out: stainless steel buckle, hand stitching, double layer edge paint. This watch strap is built to last.

With NATO strap, usually the strap is very long and you have to fold back the strap like this, which is fine for nylon, not so much for leather, because leather is thicker. With Aventail strap, you don’t have to worry about that, because your strap is made to your wrist size, it’ll fit you like a glove.

The Aventail watch strap is available in hundreds of combinations, link in the description.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video!

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Menswear in Iran, Qajar dynasty (1789–1925)

Watch this video on YouTube.

Welcome back to my channel, friend!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce you to the menswear system in Qajar dynasty (1789–1925), which is the last powerful imperial Iran dynasty before western influence overrun the country.

So, please tighten your seat belt, and enjoy the ride!

  • Brief history about Qajar dynasty in Iran

Qajar (قاجار) is an Iranian dynasty with Turkic origin. It was created when Qajar tribe overthrown the Zand dynasty and Afsharid dynasty, those that ruled over Iran for a short period of time. During Qajar dynasty, Iran regained its position as a powerful empire, re-created the wealth and glamour of the former Safavid dynasty. However, with the Russian and British encroachment, Qajar lost territories and influence over the centuries. Also, modernization process was killed prematurely, lead to poor development in the late 19th century. The Qajar was overthrown by the Pahlavi, another short-lived dynasty, eventually was overthrown themselves by Iran republic.

  • Casual wear

Most of Iran at this time still depended on pastoral economy with a small scaled crafting industry. Their clothes reflected that by having elaborate layering of different elements. Depending on the weather and personal taste, they may wear these items:

zīr-jāma: undergarments, made of silk or cotton, little details are known about this one

jūrāb (جوراب): stocking

čāqšūr (شلوار): trouser. Can be a tapered trouser worn under long rope or long jacket, or wide trouser worn with transparent shirt

ḵaftān: a long tunic, usually worn with belt or sash

pīrāhan (پیراهن): transparent shirt

qabā-ye dāmandār (قبای دامن دار): robes with skirts

arḵāloq (جلیقه): cotton waistcoat

qabā (قبا): three-quarter-length robe

courdy = kordī (کردی): sleeveless jacket robe

cadebi = kātebī (یک نیم تنه با آستین بلند): long-sleeved jacket robe

  • Formal wear and court dress

In courtly dress robes were primarily of plain or brocaded silk or cotton. They were in bright colors, and gold embroidery was also used for scalloped collars and as decoration around the neck or front opening. Coats with gold braid across the chest and buttons covered in gold or silver thread were also worn. Robes and coats could be quilted or lined with contrasting materials for both warmth and beauty. Fur-lined outer robes and sheepskin mantles were worn in winter. Robes can also be used as gifts to foreign royalties. Some notable robe types:

ḵaḷʿat (خلعت): robe of honor

čahār ḏaṛʿīs: robes 6 foot long

Jobba: silk and brocaded wool rope with long wide rolled-up sleeves and a front opening

Frock coat based on Turkish models with pleats at the waist and wider sleeves.

In later years, western clothes were adopted into court dress, while traditional dress remained popular in the civilian wear.

  • Footwear

Upper class men had legs covered in long stockings, which rose above the knee, and were fastened with cord. Peasants wore strips of cloth wound around the lower legs. Footgear consisted of pointed, flat-soled shoes, clogs, or short boots or riding boots. These boots were probably made of shagreen dyed red or green.

Gīva (گیوه‎): a casual footwear, mainly consisting of an upper part made of twined white cotton thread sewn up on the edges of a cloth and leather or rubber sole

  • Headwear

As other hierarchical societies, headwear in Qajar dynasty indicated not only gender but also religious and political allegiance. Turbans and caps are available in a wide variety of styles and materials, but the system to classify them is not yet understood. The headwear of the shah or king indicated dynastic change from one shah to another.

Kolāh (كلاه): a mandatory Qajar court hat, which is a tall black astrakhan cap angled at the top and covered along the angle with striped fabric

  • Headdress and grooming

In early years, men hair style was shaved head, though younger men retained a ponytail and light side-whiskers. In later years, short hair became popular following western style. About facial hair, older men had well-trimmed moustaches and beards. Upper class men cultivated lush beards and moustaches painstakingly dyed black.

  • Accessories and jewelry

Ropes had tassels of pearls. Armbands, collars, and hems were encrusted with gems. Even cushions and carpets were decorated in this fashion. Carpets were a major Qajar exports in later years.

Aigrettes with gold chains and plumes were attached to turbans, and flowers could be tucked into their folds as well. Jeweled armbands(bāzū-band) and belts were worn. Penboxes, daggers, swords, kerchiefs, bags, seals, and rings were attached to the belts.

  • Clothes material

The Qajar produce domestically fine cotton, silk, velvet, wool. Silks were weaved into polychrome design, with birds, flowers, lions, tigers, horses, and human figures decoration. Kashmir silk brocades were famous with flowers decoration, sometime old dresses were cut just to reuse old brocades. Kermān wool was a locally produced fabric, usually added to high end robes. The ropes increased in value and were treated as a currency.

I hope through this video, you can have an overview of menswear in Iranian Qajar dynasty. I’m making this video not as an insider but an outsider trying to understand, If I have incorrect information, feel free to comment down below.

On an unrelated topic, can you see this beautiful belt?

Aventail belt is a holeless size adjustable belt made of full grain vegetable tanned leather. You can watch the belt introduction video link in the description. The belt is available in dozens of colors, link in the description.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video!

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Menswear in China, Qing dynasty (1636–1944)

Watch this video on YouTube.

Video transcript:

Welcome back to my channel, friend!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce you to the menswear system in Qing dynasty (1636–1944), which is the last imperial China dynasty. Now China has multiple ethnics and cultures, with different systems of menswear, this video only covers the mainstream Han and Manchu system.


  • Brief history about Qing dynasty in China

The Qing dynasty is created when a Manchu clan, whose people lived in North East of China, conquer China from the Ming dynasty. Like previous nomad rooted dynasty Jin, Yuan, the Qing assimilated Han culture, language, custom and went on conquest. Under the Qing, China had the largest extend border, with a large network of tributary states, the richest economy in the world, a diverse culture with many local ethnics and foreign visitors. However, it also continued the policy of closed border from the Ming, failed to industrialize, and later collapsed due to internal pressure.

  • Ming vs Qing system

During Qing dynasty, 2 system of menswear existed side by side: the Han and Manchu. The Han menswear system is the continuity of previous Han menswear systems, which had existed and evolved over thousands of years. The Manchu brought with them their menswear system and initially forced it upon Han Chinese. In later years, The Han voluntarily adopted Manchu clothes, probably because those clothes were more convenient. Han clothes evolved from sedentary lifestyle, which made them long and loose, more fitting for a rich society with abundant of clothes and leisure time. Manchu clothes have the characteristic of a typical nomad culture, they use trousers instead of skirts, the clothes are narrow fitting, better for riding horse and live a movement intensive lifestyle.

  • Casual wear

A full set of clothes typically consists of 2 or more layers depending on the weather and situation. For 2 pieces garment, it may include a Han shirt yi (衣) or a Manchu shirt pao (袍). The bottom can be a dress called chang (裳) or a trouser called ku (褲).

Inner garment: there are 2 most common types: Zhongyi (2 pieces) and zhongdan (1 pieces).

Main layer: Several styles that are popular:

  • Shanqun (衫裙): a short coat with a long skirt
  • Ruqun (襦裙): a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt
  • Kuzhe (褲褶): a short coat with trousers
  • Zhiduo/zhishen (直裰/直身): a Ming dynasty style robe
  • Daopao/Fusha (道袍/彿裟): a style of robe for scholars
  • Changshan (長衫): Manchu influenced long shirt, often worn with magua(马褂) or riding jacket

Overcoat: Zhaoshan (罩衫): long open fronted coat

  • Formal wear

Although Chinese have different formal wear system for different occasions and religions, the most common formal wear for civilian in Qing dynasty is called Xuanduan (玄端). It consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve (often with white piping), a bottom red chang, a red bixi, an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou (佩綬), and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui (圭) or wooden hu (笏) tablet (used when greeting royalty)

  • Court dress

The Qing required men who served as court and government officials wear Manchu clothes, called Changshan (長衫). The Changshan can be worn individually, with magua, and later with western overcoat. Yellow color was reserved for the emperor. Bureaucrat or mandarin wore a coat with Mandarin Square to signify rank. Clothes in court never served as fashion but always to signify who that person was and what position the person hold.

  • Footwear

Standard men’s footwear was a black cloth boot and white soles. The style didn’t change from 17th century all the way to 20th century until they switched to western footwear. Royalty shoes may have more decorative features, but they were not reflected in painting. Children shoes were surprisingly more decorated then adult men as you can see here. This is a pair shoes with lion decorative from 19th century children shoe. Women shoes, on the other hand, were much more elaborated and not covered in this video.

  • Headwear

Royalty and mandarin wore Qing Guanmao (清代官帽). It has 2 style, the black velvet cap in winter, or a hat woven in rattan or similar materials in summer, both with a button on the top. The button or knob would become a finial during formal court ceremonies, and are removed for casual occasions. Red silk tassels extended down from the finial to cover the hat, and a large peacock feather could be attached to the back of the hat, if that person’s merit is approved by the emperor. Depend on the person rank and position, the hat finial can have different material and shape.

Civilian may have a straw hat like this. Or a melon hat like this.

  • Hair style

The famous queue. You’ve probably seen this hair style somewhere for dozens of times. This is not the traditional Han Chinese men hair style though. For thousands of years, Han men and women didn’t cut their hair because of Confucius teaching: the hair belongs to your parents, so you don’t cut hair to respect them. The Manchus forced every man to cut hair following Manchu style, resistances were punishable by death. Men following religious orders like Taoist or Buddhist were allowed to keep their hair styles. The fall of the Qing led to a complete change of men hair style to short hair almost overnight.

  • Clothes material

The most common materials were silk, cotton and linen, all were made domestically. Because of wide material selection, they can export their surplus, and made very intricate clothes design. Wool wasn’t as popular as like in the west, unlike later time. Leather and fur were used to make hat and winter clothes. Straw was made into hat and raincoat for the peasants and fisherman. The Qing was pretty much self-sufficient in clothes making without any import.

I hope through this video, you can have an overview of menswear in Qing dynasty. I’m making this video not as an insider but an outsider trying to understand, If I have incorrect information, feel free to comment down below.

One quick question, what is the similarity between this Changshan and this suit? Three, Too, One… Go!

They are both blue, and so is this blue Aventail belt.

Aventail belt is a holeless size adjustable belt made of full grain vegetable tanned leather. You can watch the belt introduction video link in the description. The belt is available in dozens of colors, link in the description.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video!

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Men’s leather shoes for beginner

Watch this video on YouTube.

Video transcript:

Hello, friend. Welcome to my channel.

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce you to the basics of leather shoe.

If you are a leather shoe expert, this video is not for you. However, if you are totally new to this great new world, stay tuned.

  • Why leather shoes

Every once in a while, you will attend a formal event, either wedding, funeral or a presentation. Or if you have an office job, in that case you need to wear semi-formal clothes. In western formality system, that means you need to wear leather shoes, end of story. Other than that, it’s is a good idea to wear leather shoes casually as well. Leather shoes give a signal that you are mature and responsible, and know the value of traditions. Leather boots on the other hand signal that you have an adventurous life style, ready to live outside the rule, and some girls definitely like that. Either way, leather shoes bring out the spark, the flare of your outfit, make it completed.

  • Leather type

The cheapest type of leather is just fake leather or split leather with a plastic coating. This type is sadly the most common type of leather for shoes. Better than that is suede, which is split leather with uncovered surface. It has a rustic, raw, unique look, but doesn’t work well in wet weather. The best leather is the full grain or top grain leather, which is the surface layer of the animal hide. Depend on the thickness of the coating, we have aniline, semi aniline, patent leather. The thicker the coating layer, the more weather resistant the leather is, but it looks less natural and more plastic. The rule of thumb is just buying the best leather you can afford and take care of it, you will enjoy your shoe more.

  • Shoe color

The most formal shoe color is black, then dark brown. After that, every other color is considered casual. For your first leather shoe, consider dark brown first, then tan or white, you will get the most milestone out of those colors. If you attend a lot of formal occasions, a black shoe should be high on your acquisition list as well. If you can afford a larger shoes collection, consider patina shoe, shoe with more than one color, shoe with nonstandard color like blue, green, red, orange… as well. Your shoe has less than 5% total surface area of your outfit, but usually is the first item to get noticed and complimented. It would be wise to invest in a good-looking shoe.

  • Soles construction

Shoe sole can be glued, heat pressed or stitched to the upper part. Glue and heat press are cheaper, more flexible type of sole construction, but less durable then stitched construction. Glue or heat press soles are typically found in sport speaker, military, outdoor shoes, or just cheap shoes. These sole construction types are cheap and flexible, but not durable. For stitched sole, the most common types are goodyear welt, Blake stitch, and cup sole. Goodyear welt and Blake stitch are typically found in traditional leather shoes, which can be resole and reused over and over for many years of use. Cup sole is typically found in good quality leather sneaker, also durable, but this sole type is usually not to be resoled. For the best bang for your buck, you should stick with stitched sole shoes like goodyear welt, Blake stitch and cup sole.

  • Shoe types and formality

Shoe type formality is simple: the less details the shoe has, the plainer the leather is, the more formal the shoe is. In order of formality, we have as follow: opera pump, wholecut shoe, oxford shoe, derby shoe, monkstrap shoe, loafer, Chelsea boot, any type of brogue shoe, boat shoe, and leather sneakers. That’s said, with the casualization of men’s wear, you can wear most leather shoe types in business casual and casual settings, as long as it’s not too formal. So, take a look of all those shoes, and think about what your dream shoe look like. The sky is not your limit.

  • Shoe horn and quick lacing technique

Leather shoe are typically closer fit then sneaker, if you have never worn them before, it’ll take some times to get used to. Because of the close fit, it’s hard to put on shoe by hand, and you need a tool called shoe horn to help you put on shoe. You use shoe horn by putting it on your heel and slide your feet in, like this. As such, you should carry a shoe horn in your EDC if you use leather shoe regularly. Alternatively, you can use this technique of quick lacing to put on shoe without shoe horn. I’ll introduce this lacing technique in another video.

  • Shoe rotation

Because the leather shoe soaks up the sweat from your foot, it’s a good idea to let it rest and dry after a long day of use to extend shoe life. If you wear leather shoe daily, you should have at least 2 shoes to rotate. You have one shoe to wear and one to rest. If you live in an area that rains often, it’s better to have 3-5 shoes to rotate, because the shoe is wetter. In short, the more shoe you have on rotation, the longer those shoes last.

  • Shoe anti wrinkles

As you walk in your leather shoe, the shoe with strain and stretch, which leads to wrinkle. There are many techniques to reduce shoe wrinkle, and my favorite is using shoe tree. That is the simplest, least effort way to reduce the shoe wrinkle. But not matter how well your take care of your shoe, it will always wrinkle, and you should accept it as an innate beauty of leather, and a part of its charm.

  • Fake leather care

If your shoe is made of fake leather ie plastic, the best think you can do is clean it regularly and keep it in a cool and dry place. The plastic that is used for fake leather is less durable then the plastic used in raw fiber form, like nylon. Overtime, the fake leather plastic will fatigue and crack, there’s nothing you can do about that but through it away.

  • Suede leather care

Suede leather is one of more fragile leather types. It’s dry and not water resistant. You shouldn’t wear suede shoe in rainy season or winter. If you have water on your shoe, you should use paper to soak up most of the water, then let it air dry. Maintenance routines include brushing the shoe after use, and spray the shoe with suede leather water repellant once per month. Suede eraser could be useful for shallow stain, and should be used as soon as the leather is dirty. Eventually, suede leather will crack because it doesn’t have oil and fat to wet it. But while it last, it’ll serve you well.

  • Smooth leather care

Smooth leather in the market is available in different tanning process and the animal the hide came from. If you have waxed leather, which is a chrome tanned leather that is soaked in oil and wax, maintenance can be as simple as regularly brushing the shoe. If you have vegetable tanned leather or non-waxed chrome tanned leather, maintenance has 3 parts: keeping the shoe clean, wet, and waxed. Keeping the shoe clean means brushing the shoe or wiping it with a wet towel, my favorite is the later because it cleans better. Wetting leather means occasionally you apply leather oil to your shoe, either once a month or longer, depending on where you live. Waxing leather means just that, applying wax to leather. This step is only for aesthetic, it depends on if you want a polished shoe, semi-polished shoe, or totally mate shoe. I’ll go into details for smooth leather care in another video.

  • Patent leather care

This is the easiest type of leather to care for. All you have to do is clean it and keep the shoe in a cool and dry place. It should last you a long time. But patent leather is hard to repair. Minor scratch can be polished and your shoe will look like new. But if your shoe has a significant scratch, you should bring it to a cobbler. So, it’s an all or nothing type of leather.

After this video, I hope you have an overview of leather shoe and know where to start with it.

And do you know what is good with your leather shoe? Aventail belt!

Aventail belt is a premium holeless size adjustable belt, available in dozens of colors.

You can check out our shop and belt in the link in the description below.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video!

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Menswear formality for beginner

Watch this video on YouTube.

Video transcript:

Hello there! Welcome back to my channel!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce to you about the meaning of clothes formality.

  • What is formality

Back when we had hierarchy societies, clothes signaled what class you belonged to, what was your position in the pyramid, what trade you belonged to. One can spot from a mile away if a person is a peasant, merchant, soldier, or 3rd ranked bureaucrat… We also had important events and places that in order to attend, we have to wear more elaborated clothes to fit in. The higher position a person holds, the more important event, the more sacred place, the more elaborated the clothes of that person is required. That is the definition of formality: the set of rules you have to follow according to level of importance of either the person, the time, or the place. Now the world is flat, everyone is equal before the law, but formality still holds for the time, the place and your position in the pyramid, whatever that pyramid is.

  • Why care about formality

Human society is an ordered society. We place higher and lower value for time, place, position. Only when we know our place in the society can we contribute to it, benefit from it, and may climb up the social pyramid when time comes. A man who doesn’t care about social order signals to everyone in an ordered society that he is a lawless, reckless idiot, who don’t deserve even the lowest position in the pyramid. In order to respect social order, you are required to respect the rules, behaviors, etiquette, and yes, clothes formality.

  • Which system of men’s wear formality

Different cultures have different set of men’s wear that suit the different formality occasions. If you are in the military, you can’t wear a business suit to a military parade. When visiting certain pagodas, you have to remove your shoes no matter of who you are. It’s always wise to research beforehand about the event that you attend, the place dress code, and what to be expected of a person in your position. That’s said, with the wide spread of western clothes, most parts of the world have accepted a common dress code and formality system that can be applied everywhere, from Europe to Asia, from America to India… This video will introduce the formality system of western clothes, and some variants.

  • Casual clothes

Casual is the lowest formality level. Here you can find anything and everything under the sun: t-shirt, polo, jean, chino, sport wear, leather jackets… Basically if you wear it and it’s comfortable, looks good to your eye, it’s good enough. However, you are still in public place, and there are still some rules even with casual wear. You should wear clothes that cover your private part and as much of your underwear as possible. Your armpit, your chest, and belly should be covered as well. If you have a not very flattering body shape, you should wear clothes that reduce the body flaws as much as possible. That is a general rule, every detail is up to you. You can wear casual clothes when you are in public place and the time and place is not important enough for a more formal outfit.

  • Business casual clothes

If you have an office job, you are expected to wear business casual outfit. Because the importance of the place and time, you are here to work with someone to provide value to someone, it requires a more formal outfit. At the basic, you are expected to wear at least formal shirt, trouser and leather shoe. Depend on your rank and culture, you are expected to wear sport jacket, blazer, or a suit as well. But, in some other places, if you wear any jacket, it may be perceived as too pretentious, so a sweater or bare shirt can be an alternative. In some office job, like software engineer, wearing casual clothes to work became the norm, but if you wear business casual, the more power to you. When you are properly dressed, everyone will know that you respect the work, the time, and will get the job done. That can be more important than getting the job done itself.

  • Formal clothes

Every once in a while, you will attend a formal event. It will be an important meeting, a wedding, funeral, or even press conference, parliament meeting… Here the cultures diverse, so your experience may vary. In the west, beside business suit, there are also black tie and white tie dress code, which is more formal then business suit, and you should adhere if you attend one. In other western influenced places, the business suit is as formal as it gets. However, in some places, wearing a western suit when you are in a government seat is frown upon. In some places, funerals mean dark color clothes, other places, white ones are required. So, for the safest option, you should have at least one business suit, and adapt per situation.

  • Difference between income

With all those rules, not everyone can always adhere to them. People have various income levels, when they can’t follow a dress code simply because that’s not affordable to them, that’s OK. If you go to a place where most people wear cheaper clothes, it’s advised that you dress down as well to avoid alienate them. But if you can afford to wear appropriate clothes, and the event call for a certain dress code, you should follow, no excuse. The rule for oneself is always stricter than the rule for others.

  • The casualization of men’s wear

As society changes, culture changes as well. What was deemed casual in last century became formal wear today. Who knows, maybe someday your sweat pant and t-shirt will become men’s wear classic. People may wear tracksuit to court room. But for now, have a suit in your closet, you will need it.

That’s why we develop the Aventail belt, this is a 35mm holeless premium belt, suitable for both casual and formal occasion.

You can see the demonstration video link in the description.

The belt is available in dozens of colors, link in the description.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video.

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Hand stitch an Aventail ratchet holeless belt

Watch this video on YouTube.

Video transcript:

Welcome to my channel, friend!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I will show you the process that we use to stitch the ratchet into the belt. This is only one step among many. The whole process takes several days to finish, and this is one of the most critical steps.

At first, we need the leather piece to be split into 2 like this, we only stitch the ratchet to the outer layer. Let’s begin.

As you can see, the hand stitch step takes a lot of time to finish. We are currently the only ratchet maker that make the belt this way. Yes, It’s over engineering. But the end result is the load bearing part of the belt is reinforced, and very hard to fail. If you only use a belt for one season, and through it away in the next one, this over engineering doesn’t matter. But if you want your belt to age just as your shoe, then every details count.

The belt is available in dozens of colors, link in the description.

Have a nice day and see you in the next video!

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10 belt types in 1 video

Watch this video on YouTube.

Video transcript:

Welcome back to my channel, friend!

I’m Phu, founder of Aventail.

In today’s video, I’ll introduce you some of the most common belt types on the market. Now, this video only covers belts that have functionality is to keep your pant up. Tool belts and decorative belts are in a whole another universe and outside of this video’s scope. Enjoy.

  • Holed belt

This is the traditional holed belt. You’ve probably seen this belt many times already, in all kind of shape and design. This belt works by looping the tail over and under, like this. The advantage of this belt is its simple construction. The less parts the belt has, the less likely it fails. The downside is this belt doesn’t fit very well, you usually have hole at least 1 inch apart, which make it impossible to fit you in all occasions.

  • Ratchet belt

This is one of the more popular belt types recently. The belt works by the ratchet look with the buckle like this. And to pull it off, you push the lever like this. The advantage is this belt can fit you quite closely, the ratchet tooth is 7mm apart, so you can adjust it to your size. The downside is this mechanism is a bit complex. You can have a cheap ratchet belt made from cheap material. If you want a ratchet belt with premium material and proper construction, it’ll cost you more than equivalent holed belt.

  • Leather backside friction belt

This belt is not very popular, however this is the default Vietnamese officer belt. This belt works like this: the buckle create friction with the belt back side, which hold the belt together. As you can see the back side of the belt has grooves 3mm apart, so you can adjust a tighter fit even better than ratchet belt. The advantage is this belt is affordable, rather good looking, and comfortable. The downside is the manufacturing process is very rigid. It takes a certain type of leather, and only a certain type of color is available, which makes it suitable for uniform, and not for civilian life.

  • Leather frontside friction belt

This belt type is more popular for women than men. The belt works like this: it creates friction between the front side of the belt with the metal loop to hold the belt together. The advantage is this belt can be adjusted to infinite size, because there is no hole or groove to speak of, which can absolutely fit the person. The downside is this belt doesn’t hold very tight, I guess that’s why it’s more popular for women than men, whom prefer belts with more holding strength.

  • Leather weave belt

This belt can be an interesting option for hot weather. As you can see, this is a holed belt with a ton of holes, made by weaving leather straps together. The upside is this belt has holes pack closely together, which makes it fit better than traditional holed belt. The downside is if this belt gets dirty, it will be hard to clean.

  • Fabric friction belt with fixed buckle

This is another military belt. The belt works by looping the tail over and under like this. The advantage is this belt has no hole or groove, so it fit exactly to the person’s body. The downside is, you know, this is a military belt, it is cheap, durable, works, but not much pretty, yes?

  • Fabric friction belt with snap buckle

This is a military inspired belt. It works like this: you open the buckle, push the tail through, then close the buckle to lock the belt in place. It makes putting the belt on and off a bit faster. This belt has the same advantage and disadvantage like the military belt before: cheap, durable, and ugly.

  • Fabric friction belt with frame buckle

This belt is designed for streetwear. It works by looping the tail over and under like this, then you let the tail to hang down like this. If you want a functional belt that’s also standout a bit, this can be for you. The upside is this belt will fit exactly to all body shapes. The downside is, can you wear it with your outfit?

  • Velcro belt

This is an outdoor, trekking type of belt. It works by attaching the head and tail of the belt with Velcro, like this. The upside is this belt also fit very well, because no holes and groove. The same downside as other military belts, this one is only for used, not for shown.

  • Elastic belt with no buckle

This belt is also one of a more popular belt types recently. This one works by attaches these loops to the first belt loops of your pant, like this. This is one of the most comfortable belt types in the market, it both fit well and stretch to fit your body when moving. The downside is, yes, it’s ugly. However, if you wear your shirt untucked, this is not a problem. Another downside is elastic fabric usually doesn’t last very long.

I hope through this video, you can have an overview of different belt types in the market. Now most of these belts are only for casual outfit, only some of the leather belt can be used for formal occasion.

Aventail belt is one of those belts.

Aventail belt is a full grain vegetable tanned leather belt with ratchet construction. The belt is designed to fit both casual and formal outfit, so that you always look dapper in every occasion.

The belt is available in dozens of colors, link in the description. Have a nice day and see you in the next video!